The Road to Julian

12:36am. Wake up. I don’t really have to pee, but do it anyway. My first real town, Julian is tomorrow. The mind starts rotating through what I have to do as town chores. I write them down until 2:30am. Physically exhausted, I’m wide awake. A bird in the bush next to me is snoring quiet little bird tweets every few minutes. I hope they are having a wonderful dream. Like a church mouse, I pack camp and am on the trail by 3:30am. 

With my ninja reflexes, I dodge and weave past a large encampment of hikers. All sleeping and dreaming of sugar plum fairies. 

My blood coagulates into a blood booger at the back of my nose as I breathe the dry desert air.  With swiftness, I descend down the steep, rocky terrain. The cold moon is a welcoming stark contrast to the hot days of sunlight. I slip and catch myself from falling into the darkness below the mountain. I chuckle as my adrenaline rises. 

2 miles in, I find a cold rock to sit on. The stars twinkle as I eat my first breakfast, leftovers from last nights dinner. In the darkness, I see a tarantula pop out of his hole. He sits there motionless, talking to me. “Hello,” he says. “Hey buddy,” I say. 3 bites later and he pops back into his hole. 3 more bites later, I pack up and leave my friend. The desert will bring him riches in the coming day. 

My headlight wakes up all the tiny moths. They try to follow me, but are too slow. I continue down the mountain, dodging cacti, and only unsuccessful, twice. Their needles bring me no pain. 

3 more miles. The sun is starting to rise. Time for breakfast #2 (chocolate peanut butter oatmeal with mini M&Ms and coconut flakes). I find an incredible overlook and find a perfect rock to sit on. It is smooth, cold, and sparkly white as the sun starts hitting it at the perfect angle. The moment I sit on the rock, my eyes forcibly shut in an attempted slumber. I catch myself as I start to fall backwards. I chuckle again. Time to eat quickly and get back to moving. Moving will keep me awake. Finishing my breakfast, I stop to take a picture as the sun rises. 

I continue on my descent of the mountain. I notice my clothes, stiff with the weeks sweat as I pass s-e-v-e-r-a-l blooming cacti of either yellow or fuchsia. The early sun makes the flowers glow with intensity. I finish my early morning hike at a road, hoping to find a hitch into Julian. The third car picks me up. His name is Tom. He tells me it’s Easter Sunday, the lords day. It is the lords day, Tom, because the world created by him has shown me its beauty. Amen. 

This is why I’m doing the PCT. 

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Starting at CLEEF campground in Campo, CA I met 40 other nervous hikers. Everyone was in a heightened mood. Smiles were big and emotions were high, understandably so. For some, the start of this trip represented passed loved ones, or a lifetime of planning, or a trip from the other side of the world. Whatever the reason, they were here now and ready to go. 

40% of those I’ve met, are international. They’re representing: Belgium, Netherlands, Australia, Czechoslovakia, Toronto, Vancouver, Germany, Italy, Ireland, Mexico, and even one from the Caribbean. 

Regardless of where people are from, we are one. The comraderie of PCT hikers is high. We all have each other’s backs, even if we are just now meeting for the first time. 

Sharing of food, gear, and advice is quickly given and received by everyone. We all want each other to succeed. Though, to be fair, this trail is technical and not for everyone. Rumors going around are at least 30 have quit the trail within the first week. 

My actual start was met with tears of joy and high emotions. Starting at the terminus and the border wall, I could feel the weight of my own journey. I had finally begun my dream. All my planning, preparation, and determination had come to fruition. Tears welled into my eyes as I thought of all the things I needed to accomplish to get here. 

My kids, Jenn, my loved ones, my friends, my job, my house, and my life are now all on hold as I take the path that so many have done before me. I feel so special and privileged to be on this trail. There is a magic in the air, the dirt, the rocks, and of course, the people. 

To my kids, my loved ones, my friends, and my colleagues, thank you for your support. There is literally no way I would be able to do this adventure without your help. I am grateful to have you in my life. 

As most of you know, I am a notorious night owl. I am happy to report that beginning in day 1, it has been easy to get to sleep by 8pm, and awake by 5:30am. I am also happy to report my CPAP machine has worked well to lull me into my slumber. 

A big reason people do this trail is the other people doing the trail. We are quick to form tramilies and I have done the same. Since I am a mostly solo hiker, it is easier to think of my tramily as a bubble. I catch up to a few at a water source, chat for a bit as they head off, and as I get water, the rest catch up to me. 

My first tramily has been a diverse group of several: Jim, Julie, Mitchell – a family from Oregon; David from LA (and his brother Brian from NYC who flew home after the first week), Mike from NYC, Morgan (Ireland), Charolette (Netherlands), and Pickles (Czechoslovakia), and once in a while I get to see the speedy Alaine (Oregon), Wade (Colorado), and Sheldon (Portland). Pickles had the pleasure of obtaining her trail name on day two. These folks are wholesome, sweet and have some darn good stories and senses of humor. And yes, there are even more people in my bubble, but these are the ones I’m closest to. Perhaps that will change as people’s needs and bodies adapt to the trail. 

Traditional time no longer exists. There are no prescribed times for anything (as evidence by the story up top). We’re in the desert and only two things remain important: where’s the next water, and where will I be sleeping for the night? You eat when you are hungry, which is always, including when you wake to pee. You hike when you do. You break when you do. 

Traditional food no longer exists. I have a routine I like: breakfast #1 of potato chips (which are the original electrolytes before electrolytes were invented). They are best eaten crushed, with a spoon, straight from the bag. Then I hike an hour or so and stop for breakfast #2 of oatmeal. I hike another hour or so and take a much longer break for lunch and for rest. I then hike another hour or so and stop for a snack. And then I hike another hour or so to my final destination of the day. Dinner with a possible chat. Sleep. Repeat. 

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Julian is a small tourist/hiker town. They are internationally known for their pies. As of this writing, I’ve had two pieces. Mom’s Pies is very succulent, rich with butter, and far better than anything I could ever produce. A+. 

I am taking my zero day at the Julian Hotel (julianhotel.com). If I said “doilies with tea and crumpets,” you would get the idea. They serve a 2 course breakfast that is incredible. The first course is their own homemade granola with milk. The second course is an egg florentine with spinach and three cheeses, a wedge of warmed bread with salted sweet cream butter, and three slices each of cold apples, oranges, and melon. Plus there is an assortment of coffees, juices, and teas they bring to you. It all makes me feel so well taken care of and fancy. 

Town days are very busy. It isn’t just laying around resting, though I am getting to do some of that too. There are lots of chores to do: laundry; gear resupply; food resupply; planning the next hike to the next town; and everyone’s favorite: eating. 

I looked at myself in the mirror today… I can see my body changing already. I’m losing belly fat, and gaining leg muscle definition. Who knew working out intensely every day would turn my body into a Greek statue.  But I suppose that’s another reason to get more pie. 

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A few interesting stats so far:

I’ve been camping with at least 1 other. Only once have I slept alone.

I’ve been doing a good job of balancing my hiking between alone and with others. About a 50/50 mix thus far. 

I’ve written in every log book I can find. I’ve been writing a quote each time, “Don’t Let Your Dreams Be Dreams.” Thank you to Christian Ayala for hitting me with that back in 2022 at Order My Gear. 

I’ve broken a hiking pole. The family from Oregon was kind enough to help me repair it…and it might be stronger than before it was broken. 

I’ve gotten my first blister. My big toe’s callus on my right foot created one on day 3. 

On day 0, at CLEEF, I literally taught someone how set up their tent for the first time. Hey, we all gotta start somewhere. 

I can hear bees everywhere. The desert is in bloom and it shows. The flowering cacti are impressive and brightens everyone’s day. 

My watch says I’ve been burning 4,000 calories a day. That just means I can order more pie, and eat more snickers. 

I have done 77 miles and not dug a single cat hole. There have been a lot of day use facilities for me to take advantage of. I heard a rumor the record is 150 miles. I’m curious to see how long I last. 

I have obtained more gear than I intended to have. These Nemo Switchbacks allow me to lay down on the ground during the day with my feet up and not get dirty. Plus, they are excellent under my sleeping pad so it doesn’t move around at night. 

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Thanks again to everyone back home and those reading from the trail. See you at the next blog post.